Inside the bulb are two strips of platinum that serve as electrodes or contacts. This is located on the throttle body and is the absolute minumum idle speed. That had a definite impact. Older single wire O2 sensors do not have heaters. Whoever did the manifold cleaning screwed it up. Does everyone else know aluminum conducts heat really well? I could give it throttle and keep it running, though it is running very rough.
I believe the power steering sensor is a switch, but I've never measured it so I'm not sure. As we have witnessed, the computer is able to adjust the idle rpm and maintain it there. In frustration I'm about to install a toggle switch to control the injector power from the cockpit although that would probably be an illegal modification harness modification. When I put my hand over the muffler tip the engine did not stall as expected and the smoke increased coming out of the manifold, so I have a pretty big exhaust leak. If this car sat for a while, you may want to drain the tank and put fresh fuel in it. Try this - let the car warm up until the fan comes on.
In a discussion with Louis at Rush I mentioned it and he says 'oh yeah. Noted the position of the internal springs and widgets. There are sensors all over the car, especially involving the fuel monitoring systems and pollution controls. Check the intake manifold and vacuum hoses for air leaks. If it is still out of wack, continue.
Based on my reference point have decided if it was an external leak anything big enough to double the idle speed would be unmistakable. Bypassed the switch with a jumper and idle dropped right down. Once it starts dropping to idle the flow of exhaust will create a vacuum pulling clean air in. An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0. Is the throttle body sitting before or after the mass airflow sensor? I switched it to Mobil-1 10w30 synthetic shortly after purchase and this helped a bit. It seems almost like there's a pressure relief valve either in the pump itself or in the block prior to the filter, which was simply bleeding off the extra oil when it was working against the less efficient filter. Then resolder the broken connections and recheck the resistance.
Seems to be related to grade of road too. The idle problem the engineers needed to solve is one of unknown variable load. Flex it carefully and look for cracks. At any rate, I just thought I'd share this tidbit. But I do not know exactly where the problem might be located. Like the folks at Dossey, tech at Brandon Mazda dealership also suggested just driving it, hoping that the red light will come on so that computer can provide a clue as to what is wrong.
While changing the timing belt I went ahead and removed the cams so I could inspect each lifter. If you find one, fix it and then set the Base Idle. Only thing different at this point between now and the past few weeks is that the air valve is blocked off. When I come to a stop, Serrano hovers at around 1400 rpm for a few seconds, then settles down to a steady 850. It runs badly only under certain load conditions, especially 30 mph in third gear, on a level road or a slight grade downhill.
If so can I learn from your experience on where to look next please? Spraying the starter fluid still has the same effect. A vacuum line leaking air in somewhere. Understanding a problem often leads to it's isolation and thus it's solution. Under heavy throttle as low as 10. Letting off suddenly should jerk the smoke back towards the leak.
I will need to check the throttle stop screw. In order to start tuning we need to stabilize the idle, this is just basic settings in order to get us going. When the problems are resolved and you refill the tank, continue adding Marvel Mystery Oil at a treat rate of 4 oz. The cleaning process could have messed up the fuel injectors. Sensors on your engine give the computer advance warning of variable load so it can make better and faster decisions. I tried to back out the idol adjuster with the nut on it but its all the way out. This basicly acts like a choke on a carb.