You'll also want to make sure the float doesn't have any leaks and that there's no dirt or deposits stopping the float valve from sealing. One kick hot or cold is the ideal to aim for. Meanwhile, enjoy the new pics but ignore the mass amounts of sh! Some people refer to this as the slow speed screw or air screw that's just wrong , but Honda calls it the pilot screw. It is designed as direct plug and play and should be used as such. I'm finally on the road, legally!! At the time, the 25-degree steering head angle was considered radically steep. Honda took the racing effort in Baja in house with the likes of Bruce Ogilvie at the helm. If you've got a hanging idle, or a sticky throttle that wasn't resolved with proper cable maintenance, running through the above process might cure the problem, but there can be other complications which we'll get to later.
Might even be too much for oncoming drivers in the daytime! If you have an area that looks like dry dust, just apply another coat or 2 to make it wet, and walk away. You'll also want to make sure the float doesn't have any leaks and that there's no dirt or deposits stopping the float valve from sealing. Allen heads are the answer, but most commercial Allen head kits only cover the easy-to-reach bits. Drop the choke to halfway soon after she fires, then fully off as she warms up. Did you sand any scratches out before painting and what type of prep process did you use if you dont mind me asking? Butchered Phillips cross-head screws are pretty much to be expected on old bikes, and if someone's been playing with the jetting in the past you can pretty much guarantee the cross-heads on the carby are well past their use-by date. You can't really check this without the carb off the bike, but an easy intermediate 'solution' is to flush out the pilot screw hole using an aerosol with an extension tube you can slide up into the pilot screw opening — a can of electronics cleaner is ideal because you can really go to town and it'll evapourate eventually, wait a bit without leaving any residue.
Keihin uses a M4x13mm cross-head with a 7mm shank on the throttle spindle but it's a bit of an 'orphan' size and, since it's as much about clamping force as lateral play, an M4x12mm Allen head works fine. Slow-speed circuit: the pilot screw and the slow jet make up the slow-speed circuit. Should I lay the bike on it's right side before attempting this? No, of course not—no more than anyone at Volkswagon knew what would happen to the Beetle. Both are best addressed with the carb off the bike but, if you're careful, you can work with the carb in situ. It's all a bit academic unless you're using a tacho, but adjusting by ear generally works out fine too high or too low should be obvious, you're aiming for a consistently smooth idle where you can still tell it's a big thumper. Timing is pretty much set and forget, so if that's okay it's really just down to checking that you've got the right plug and that the cap, lead and coil are all okay that said, a faulty kill switch can give you all sorts of intermittent hard-to-diagnose problems.
To avoid confusion read the glossary of terms right before you get the spanners out. I really want to switch out the levers too and totally update the whole cockpit but ill wait. All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations. The valving must be completely different. Stock 'Aussie spec' jetting is a 62 slow jet and a 152 main with the needle clip set in the third middle groove and the pilot screw at 2. And while we're talking Allen heads, if the cross-heads on your twistgrip throttle body body have corroded themselves into place as steel bolts tend to do in aluminium housing M6x15mm is the replacement size.
Anyway, once you've solved any slow-speed circuit issues, and got your main jet right bear in mind there's a bit of a 'trickle down' effect every time you change the main , you're going to want to fiddle with the position of the needle clip to give you the best throttle response and mid-range performance. Reduced vacuum-induced stiction seems a likely outcome, but any improvement in low-end response is probably down to the fact that you're jetting richer to compensate for the added air the hole delivers at 'closed' throttle and then getting a little bump of extra fuel in the mix as the slide rises and the hole is covered up. Later, Scott became a victim of his own publicity machine. Do you think they knew that they had just built a wildly successful race bike as well as general purpose campground cruiser? Turning the knob clockwise raises the slide and airflow to increase the idle speed, anticlockwise backs it down. No stator can work correctly with a bad or weak battery.
The emphasis should be to keep that jetting diary too — besides being invaluable while you're actually juggling jets, it'll get you back on track after a break and help eliminate guesswork in the future. Looks ok from out front. Support the carb body and the outside end of the shaft, check that the spring is in position and causing the shaft to rotate properly, tap the brass cap plate back firmly into place, lightly peen it in position, and you're ready to go. I have someone who already spray painted the plastic and I wanted to go over and touch it up with the Krylon Fusion, not sure what they used. If the spring isn't rotating the shaft to its normal closed position check where it sits in relation to the choke lever you're going to have to find a drift or, realistically, a nail with a flat head that'll fit through the shaft opening, and punch out the brass plate in the carb body.
If you're too lean you need bigger jets more fuel , too rich and you need smaller jets less fuel. Lightening the load is as simple as pulling out the throttle linkage spindle and cutting a 1mm groove at the spot where the return spring seats against the spindle 'quadrant'. It's much less tiring and, as an added bonus, the reduced spring resistance gives you better feel and control when you're pottering around pretending you can ride trials. That's not necessarily an issue. Prising out an old O-ring use thin-gauge wire with a very short 90-degree hook can leave bits of decayed rubber that will block the opening. Slow jet: is what Honda calls the smaller jet at the front engine side of the carb ahead of the main jet. No, of course not—no more than anyone at Volkswagon knew what would happen to the Beetle.
A can of electronics cleaner works well here too. If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0. The customer is responsible for all return shipping costs incurred. First off, clean that air filter properly good to have two so you can oil one and let it drain off overnight — you're aiming for consistency. With the diaphragm breached fuel can be sucked up directly into the carb body at low speeds and idle making you run rich.
I don't wanna fry anything, so what's the deal? Discounting problems with cables for a moment, that something is a combination of engine inlet vacuum, age and wear. If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0. Once pleased with the texture, clean again with Paint Prep multiple times to ensure all residue is removed. The downside is that you'll get more pops from the exhaust on the over-run hey, some people like that! If the carb is mixing in too much air or too little fuel you're said to have a lean condition. This is generally the first thing to play with once you've got the slow circuit sorted out — numerically bigger is richer, numerically small is leaner. If all goes well, street tires, supermoto front fender, Trail Tech light, speedo. Handy hint is to initially leave the bottom part of the twistgrip housing off so you can see what's happening with the cables while you use the screw adjusters to get the right play after making major adjustments at the carb body.