Clear out a possible flooded engine. Use a spark plug wrench to remove all eight spark plugs, one at a time, and inspect the tips. Clicking usually means there is not enough power to turn the engine over. Last night I was on I-95 south bound doing about 65mph in my 2002 Chevy 1500 4x4 4. I'm going to replace the chain.
It is running great now. After you hook it up, you can listen at the rear of the vehicle. See and apply fused 12 volts to pin G. I can't imagine what those plug will look like when I take them out. After several attempts at getting it to turn-over, still nothing. Other than that you need to make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly and bleed everything out. Probably rich looking I am thinking.
Make sure you have the bed blocked up well, or it could fall and cause massive injury. When the truck is running it responds directly to the throttle and exhibits no signs of sputtering or stalling. This is my only vehicle and I can't continue renting a car, racking up more costs. If it does the the problem is probably the module under the distributor. I didn't hear any noises, it just shut down.
I have used a phillips screwdriver in the plug boot, hold shank of screwdriver close to engine ground, crank engine watch for spark jump to ground, probably safer to use a spark tester. Just some moe information I filled a quart jar full of gas from the tank and it was clean and no water. When you said the module was disconnected, you were talking about the part that bolts to the base of the distributor inside the cap aren't you? Listen for that click to see if it comes from the starter solenoid on the starter-maybe have someone try to start it while you watch and listen under the hood. It uses a dielectric compound between the module and distributor to dissipate heat which is important. Place the black lead of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal. Thank you for your help.
That is something that I don't have. Bad pump, plugged filter, contaminated gas, etc. Did you have the dist out of the truck? Inspect both ends of both battery cables. I can drive the truck as long as my foot is on the pedal giving it a little gas when I'm at a stop light. Did you check for spark at the plugs? I took the distributor cap off and the rotor does turn. .
Should I try changing the filter and fluid again? I have tried spraying starter fluid with no luck, so I have to assume it's not a fuel delivery issue. I pulled the bed and replaced the fuel pump complete unit with sender, fuel filter, there was about 5 gal of gas in tank I put 5 more gal in it looked clean when I had sender out so I did not replace the fuel. The filter is a possibility, but if it is so restricted that the truck won't run, the pump will have been damaged by this regardless. You can do this by rotating the engine by hand. You can get a cheap spark tester at the auto-store. Put the cap back on and check the spark again, or try starting it.
If the pump isn't working, you probably won't have any pressure in the lines to worry about. Finally I was able to get pulse going to the injectors and fuel getting up to the throttle body. I don't know how you checked for voltage at the injectors? Sometimes it will try to run for 7 or eight seconds, rpms going up and down till it stalls out. I costed into the break down lane and shut the key off and tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. I upgraded the cap to a Borg Warner.
Someone please throw me a bone. Sorry for the long post. I have a new fuel filter and while it was off I check the fuel pressure. Would you suggest also replacing the fuel pressure regulator while I'm in there? Ford recommends replacing the spark plugs every 100,000 miles. I have to get the harmonic balance puller today. Even when priming, sometimes the motor would start and keep running or run until the gas I poured in was used up.
First, the ignition switch sends electrical current from the battery to the starter solenoid. Working on the truck again this afternoon. I believe it is a red wire. I forget where it is never used it but I know it has one. All good, but no real improvement. You can run B+ to that connector, the pump should run. I will check the reading on my meter seeing if the temperatures correspond.
You should be able to locate instructions online on how to check the module and how to check the coil using an ohmmeter. It will then shut it off if the engine is not turning over. Took it for a ride, got down the street and it died again. I have to stay back a good distance for room the break pads are good I was wondering if 1990 gmc just have crap breaks to begin with or if there's something I can check or do to improve this problem. Same quality spray as when it was running well last week. Thanks, Is the coil getting power? Yes it has ran since rebuild.