When shifting into gear, rear end would pop, and abs brakes went out when applied. And if so, why is it happening and what can you do about it? Second the automatic transmission is shifting hard from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, I am forced to shut the engine off for a couple of minutes and when I restart the engine the problem disappear, I have read your safety bulletins and gm is aware of these problems. Problem seems to be intermittent. If I come to a stop and turn the ignition off for a few minutes it shifts into overdrive, but if I stop at a corner and then take off it seems like it is only using one or two gears and it will not shift into overdrive or so I presume as at 55mph it is running 2300 rpms. Consumer is considering getting a second opinion. I don't know anything about transmissions, I have never worked on them, but everything else! I think changing the fluid would be a good start, I have never tackled this job before. If you are unable to diagnose the problem, you will need to have it looked at by a certified automotive repair technician.
What you are describing sounds normal to me though. Truck has around 150k on it. I have driven it all week back and forth to work 270 plus miles and it has run like new. I took one of my older cars there and was told that and my father in law did the same thing except he didn't get it replaced and it ran for another 100000 before the engine quit on him and not the tranny! If I come to a stop and turn the ignition off for a few minutes it shifts into overdrive, but if I stop at a corner and then take off it seems like it is only using one or two gears and it will not shift into overdrive or so I presume as at 55mph it is running 2300 rpms. This is the gear selector switch mounted on the side of the transmission. You need to get it to act up and be able to see that data pid to be able to diagnose which direction to take.
Take it and have the codes read and post them here and we can take it from there. Look for blown fuses or damaged wiring. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. If not, that should be your first step. Sorry, but I had to ask. When it fails to do so, you naturally get upset either because of the trouble you are not looking for or the fear of how much the fix may cost. How much transmission fluid should I buy? I'm guessing you regularly have some fun with the name, even though it's pretty likely you pronounce more like the town in France and not the intestinal tract feature.
This particular code is a performance code. A good looking, reconditioned pan. If not, the trans is doing it on its own. Want to make it last? It requires power to close to allow line pressure to build behind it into the forward accumulator and against the forward accumulator valve. Not utility body or anything. This occurs on an infrequest basis and has been happening since I bought the truck. A bad ignition means that there may not be full voltage available to activate the shift solenoids.
Year and a half and tranny still drives just the same as when it started. One failure was while on vacation trans failed while stuck in traffic. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5. Would restart it and it turned off. I'm not at the shop right now but when I get there either later today or tomorrow, I'll look it up and post it here if I can.
Checking the fluid level and condition is always the first thing to do. No specific pattern to this, just random. I watched the screen and as soon as it got to the point where it shift into over drive it showed tcc engaged and I'm sure that would say no when it kicks out. I am not quite sure what could have caused it but the plastic nose part of solenoid was cracked not quite sure if that was the root problem or not also the wire coiling seemed to be frayed a little bit. I have plenty of power otherwise! After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine.
After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. I want you to check the range switch. It will only do it about 1 time a week and only when it has sit for a little bit. The pressure transducer below the valve body cannot be relied upon for this kind of diagnosis, so a scanner reading of line pressure may be misleading and is useless. I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Has anyone else had this same problem? I don't think it is a fuel problem either because I can rev it up and it is fine doesn't miss a beat and when I am having it do this I can shift into neutral and the engine sounds the same! Fortunately, this can usually be diagnosed and possibly serviced in the vehicle. By troubleshooting the transmission yourself, you may find that the problem can be fixed by yourself and could save you a lot of money in mechanics fees.
Let me know what you find out. Below are several common things to check. I also have p0171,P0174 and p0463 code, would any of these cause this issue? This article applies to the Chevrolet Silverado. But 4wd is absolutely vital driving on the roads here in alaska most all winter, and part of spring. Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.