Thank you all for your help. Ive check the wiring to see if any loose connectors, cant start by electric start because the starter clutch is broken so can only kick start it and thats a pain as it sometimes slips needs new teeth on it the kill switch us 2 wires that are just loose no switch anymore as it broken and the other wires i think are for the lights and the electric start lever which is now broke Im crap with electrics so not sure how to trace and test also my new stator has 6 wires instead of 5 so i am unsure how to wire it, see pictures of mine the correct one and the other off ebay which they say to re-wire any help with this guys? The cable elbow is under the handgrip so I never noticed it had come loose. Then if it has a oil filter then change that also. The engine of the Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4x4 has a 10. I'm puzzled and ready to just buy a new carb.
It has a good cable and it is hooked up. Hopefully it's something I can just weld up and re-grind the guide rods. The filter is behind a cover that is retained by 3 bolts in a triangle pattern that require a 10mm socket for removal. The machine has hydraulic front disc brakes and drum rear brakes. Then put the bolt back in and refill.
Just print it out and take it with you into the garage or workshop. The fact that the machine shifts easily in low-range makes me less likely to think that a shift fork is the issue, but I would not rule it out as a possibility. The vehicle comes in green, red and black colors. Another question, was this problem occuring before the carb was rebuilt, or did it start to occur afterwards. I may try changing the supressor cap but damn, I'm getting tired of throwing money this thing.
How can I help this issue or is it going to turn into a teardown issue? The Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4x4 weighs 604 lbs. Usually if turning the choke on or off has little to no affect, that means there is something wrong with the choke. Carb has been rebuilt, air filter is clean, Compression is good,it's fouling plugs like crazy and the choke seems to make very little difference. If I get it warmed up good it pops pretty bad during deceleration. Another question, was this problem occuring before the carb was rebuilt, or did it start to occur afterwards. The Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4x4 can be operated in both two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive modes. It still may be worth your time to look at the ratchet mechanism, you do not have to split the case halves to see that.
It grabs before the engine has a chance to rev, which stalls it. Remove plug and let drain. I'm happy to hear that suggestion!!! I have had to replace the wire for the starter but now when I try to start it it wont idle at all and when it does run it smokes really bad like a whitish blue I guess, and it likes to stall a lot. If I don't have to split it. The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. When i got it i couldnt get a spark then i messed around with it and got a spark and got it running, then it just died after 30 mins, now no spark so i replaced spark plug, ignition coil, cdi, ignition switch, stator and regulator and got a spark again now its gone again? I've checked all the cables to the carb and it just doesn't make sense! I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb: The choke still doesn't do anything.
So I took the carb back apart to see if he put something together wrong or lost a part etc. I have bought a 1996 suzuki king quad 300 and I have noticed that it smokes but I have put oil in it and plenty of gas had to fix shifter bc the nuts and bolts came out somewhere. Could a clogged muffler cause this? Your 2002 Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4x4 used to get you across the toughest terrain and haul gear and materials around your land all day long when you wanted it too. I didn't check to see if the cable is pushing the plunger back down. The cable elbow is under the handgrip so I never noticed it had come loose. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
We are talking about the same idle air screw. It acts like a choke problem but everything checks out ok. I'm gonna check to make sure the cable and hand control is actually working. You just need to disconnect the wiring harness and clean the connections. I wish you luck, keep us updated on your progress. The subtransmission is located behind the left crankcase cover. If an ignition system malfunction is suspected, refer to Chapter Nine and perform the service procedures relating to the ignition system.
We will also be here to offer anything we can to help you out. I was thinking that it's a guide rod problem as well. Loosen and take the bolt out and let it drain out. Unfortunately, the most likely cause of your problem is a bent shift fork, and that would mean a complete teardown of the motor to fix. But that was then and these days your Quadrunner 500 has got rattles from the engine, grinding in the transmission and way too much smoke from the exhaust. It doesn't seem to make any difference. Just print it out and take it with you into the garage or workshop.
In addition, pre-load adjustable shock absorbers are mounted on all four corners of the vehicle. I messed with it a bit today and it shifts really easy when it's in low range. It also has problems downshifting from second to first. With this circuit wide open, fuel flows into the venturi at the rate needed to sustain a full throttle application, obviously this is going to make things way too rich. Enjoy, and everyone have a very Merry Christmas! It will save you a lot and know more about your motorcycle in the long run. I don't want to tear it all apart and have it dead all winter.
I'm really thinking it is in the choke. The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. It's gotten to the point where it was parked for 4 years just because of the issues. I looked over the cables and hand controls and found the choke cable adjuster was completely off the threads and the locknut was off the tube. I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Refill with the manufacturer recommended oil and replace the tire. The rattling may be a gear not fully engaged, also a sign of a bent shift fork or other internal tranny problem.