Dec 01, 2015 I wouldn't replace the plugs, just yet. Anyone run into this issue or have any ideas? Here is all the shit I pulled out, although the two brackets under the charcoal canister and the plastic shields went back in. In this video I show you how to do it. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Rafal, assuming you mean the section on the throttle body i have circled here, No pressure actually goes through that, its just a water jacket to heat up the air to aid cold start. Test for this when replacing the bad pump.
I had exactly the same problem with my 2005 Mazda 3 i bought 2 months ago. If the solenoid clicks then check the wires right at the plug. Great information, thanks for replying. I removed the pump and just plugged the two hoses but i don't have any power what so ever if i go up a steep hill i would be in trouble. The Check Engine light came on and the repair people said it was due to a problem with the Leak Detection Pump…costly to repair.
Can you just replace the filter or buy it separately? I have the same issue on my 2005 3. I am having a random P0446 pop up and I'm leaning towards it being dirty parts somewhere. It will be a pain, you will curse Mazda for basically building the car around this stupid pump. Here is all the shit I pulled out, although the two brackets under the charcoal canister and the plastic shields went back in. Smoke is coming out there because the pump isn't sealing all the way. I can clear it and it will come back eventually. I'm getting all of the trouble codes for lean at idle, and I do notice that my needle kinda fluctuates when I'm idling.
What are the symptoms of the P2402 code? I don't think the purge valve or leak detection pump are bad yet although the purge valve seems cheap and easy to replace. What repairs can fix the P2402 code? Test it with 12 volts it should click. Questions that I still have after researching this issue: Does anyone know of a thread with details on lowering the rear subframe? A mandated recall is required to be performed free of charge no matter what. Code P2402 is an indication that the evaporative pump is shorted internally and other than failing emission tests and the check engine light being on, should not cause any drivability problems. Additional comments for consideration regarding the P2402 code Code P2402 for the evaporative pump is drawing more amps than specified. What the P2402 code means? Hope it will be obvious once under the car.
It seems like this is probably necessary in order to replace the leak detection pump. Have done it on past cars. Most likely though, the pump is just failing gradually and the I wouldn't be surprised if the codes become more and more frequent. I searched for this specific part number ad got a couple hits. It seems like most people have had to replace the evap pump and had a shop do it.
This is common on higher mileage vehicles after the pump has gotten worn or if the pump relay sticks on and runs the motor continuously until the pump burns out. It could be a leaking purge valve , you could need a new gas cap as well or it could be the fuel filler neck. On the engine bay side, I removed the purge solenoid valve and hose and capped the line with vacuum caps. My first thought was to get a new purge valve but then I noticed something missing on my intake. What is that piece reading? My next concern is you will still need a form of venting for the fuel tank to allow pressure out of the tank so that it will not possible go boom boom or something else. Any ideas on how she might pursue getting this fixed with Mazda paying the freight? I will take pictures if I do this myself. I don't think the purge valve or leak detection pump are bad yet although the purge valve seems cheap and easy to replace.
How does a mechanic diagnose the P2402 code? I can clear it and it will come back eventually. I've seen several threads on this, some of which are linked at the end of this post. Yeah, that's what I meant. I have a Mazda 6 2. My daughter owns a 2004 Mazda3. I've read of others who said it is simple to lower the subframe and that there are only six bolts, but haven't seen any instructions or pictures. Recently I finally did find the part number on a service bulletin at this site.
There was no space to reach and clamp that green pain in the ass quick release connector so I just obliterated it bottom of picture below. It's very common on these cars for the leak detection pump not seal all the way causing a small evap leak. Edit - ps you loaded the fuel tank diagram twice. It is behind a plastic shield that is seen after removing the rear wheel on the passenger side. Can you just replace the filter or buy it separately? Try to blow through it by mouth. When a recall is issued it applies only to what is spelled out exactly in the recall bulletin; no more, no less. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact.
My guess is that the 6 and the 3 have the same pump. My dad thinks I should go back to the dealer and demand they pay for the repairs since they clearly knew about the problem. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. They are a huge pain in the ass to change, have to lower the rear suspension to change them. In order to properly check that car for a leak you have to either command the pump, or crimp the line to the pump. Here is a diagram of the evap system on the fuel tank side: I was thinking about yanking charcoal canister and evap system leak detection pump and leaving the air filter like this: On the engine side, I would remove the purge solenoid valve and the line that goes to the intake manifold and plug the hole.
I put electrical tape on the electrical connector and the thin evap line that runs all the way into the engine bay. Hopefully I can do it by bending the bracket or dropping the gas tank instead of dropping the subframe. If the check engine light is lit there will be a code. Could this be throwing the codes? Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. A volutary recall has limits related to time and mileage. For the record, the charcoal canister, evap system leak detection pump, and all the hoses I pulled on both the engine and rear side weigh 7 lbs.