If you don't get full voltage there, you might want to look into those fusible links. The K20 also had two diesel engine options: a 6. I'd start by measuring the voltage at the little S terminal on the solenoid, while you're trying to start it. I disconnected the the fuse link wires from the main starter terminal and did a continuity check on them. The K20 name referred to the three-quarter ton, four-wheel-drive Chevy truck model. There are two fuse-links at the starter.
Good Luck Mike It's tough to do some of these tests by ones self, and without a wiring diagram to know which wires should have what voltage when the key is turned. Okay, If I can jump the solenoid successfully, and I'm getting voltage coming out of the big yellow wire on the ignition switch - check the purple wire at the starter. I tried to follow the wire on the diagrams. It worked, so I didn't mess with it. Okay, If I can jump the solenoid successfully, and I'm getting voltage coming out of the big yellow wire on the ignition switch - check the purple wire at the starter.
On the long-bed model, the wheelbase was 131. Wipers and washer fluid both work. I think it goes to a coolant temp switch? Nice job you could do something like the original switch. The next trim level was the Custom Deluxe, with a padded bench seat and arm rests, courtesy lights, a padded dashboard, sun visors and stainless-steel grill moldings. We've replaced the alternator and that's not the problem. I saved a 6 spot switch from a 24v welder, and there is push buttons that have a switch. I replaced the negative battery cable and put a new terminal end on the positive cable.
Also look at where the wire connects at the firewall, the big plastic plug behind the fusebox, if you're losing voltage between the neutral switch and the starter, or between the battery and the ignition switch. The power lock motor needs to be replaced. Winning bidder will need to pick up this truck, no shipping. It was spliced into the large 10 gauge purple wire on the firewall on the driver's side, and the terminal block on the center of the firewall to complete the circuit. Chevrolet, a well-known producer of domestic trucks, has been manufacturing versions of the half-ton truck since 1918. There are two switches on the brake pedal.
All lights and turn signals work. Therefore it has several potential problem areas. The gasoline engines available on the 1984 Chevy K20 included a 4. Trace the wire inch by in inch past the alternator, around behind the distributor. The battery tested good, and the starter tested good - but I swapped the starter out anyway under warranty. I jumped the s terminal to the main terminal, and the starter cranks over fine; sounds good.
In 1984, Chevy's half-ton two-wheel-drive truck was labeled the C10, while the four-wheel-drive truck was called the K10. Trace the wire inch by in inch past the alternator, around behind the distributor. With the 1984 model year came several changes to the Chevy K20's body. This engine had a bore of 3. Easy test is to jump battery cable terminal to solenoid terminal.
Six different trim packages were offered on the 1984 Chevy K20. The fusible links attached to the starter supply power to the truck and shouldn't affect starter operation unless ignition switch didn't get any power. I didn't check them yet. I added a tow package and trailer light plug for towing boats and trailers. Considered a full-size light-duty pickup, the half-ton truck got its name because of the payload size it could haul. This truck is a long wheel base, has a very good straight body.
The starter needs 12 volts and a good ground to operate. All truck models had a front track measuring 65. One must be for the brake lights, could the other be part of a starter safety circuit? I'll go pull the plug at the firewall and inspect it. I have an '84 Chevy C10 6. The Cheyenne Super trim had added body moldings, a chrome tailgate handle and chrome wheel-well trim. It's 4:00 and I have somewhere to be at 5, so I guess I'll work on freeing and repairing the pinched wire s tomorrow.
The basic dimensions of the K20 stayed the same from 1973 until 1987. This truck is all original, and has a computer of sorts. Screwed it back together, still no starter. Transmission options for the Chevy K20 consisted of a three-speed manual, a four-speed manual, a four-speed manual with overdrive, a three-speed automatic and a four-speed automatic. Also available was a 305 cubic-inch V-8 engine with 160 hp, 235 foot-pounds of torque, a bore of 3.
If it's still low, follow it back to the ignition switch. If it's more than one volt lower than the battery voltage, then follow it back to the neutral switch, see what it is. I didn't have any luck pulling up a wiring diagram for the starter circuit online, so troubleshooting it on limited knowledge and experience is. It received a new bi-level grill, and galvanized steel door panels served as a new rust-fighting feature. Test light can be used, but it will be harder to see a subtle voltage drop via bulb intensity. Perhaps the starter button has a loose electrical connection inside. Current flow makes a wire warm - so where is the current flowing? Also available was the M20 Muncie, a four-speed manual with a first gear ratio of 6.