I finally traced it to a bad fuel pressure regulator. The car has 96xxx miles and doesn't like to turn over when it sits for more than about 6 hours, it is worse the colder it is. If so, where on this type of vehicle can I locate the starter? As for the issue,carnvperson, have you tried cleaning the throttle body? Acceleration was smoother, power felt like it was being delivered better. I would have the battery tested for sure. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers 1 for each cylinder If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. If the battery tests good the cables could be corroded under the sheath where you cant see.
Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Didn't work, I still have a rumble about 30% of the time when I start, and just two days ago the check engine light came back on I haven't had time to get it diagnosed yet. Yesterday I was attempting confirm that fuel was the missing component and had pulled the air intake from the throttle body. I'm looking for suggestions on how to best find exactly what is wrong. For external coils, check there first. My question is why does this happen? Same symptoms as Wednesday night. Once the car starts it will fire right up every time you start it as long as it doesn't sit for more than about 6 hours.
So I called a tow truck. Then, it devolved back to the difficulty starting. This happens around 15 mph almost every time. I have had the battery and alternator checked and both are fine. Before, it would start better if it had been sitting for probably 2+ hours. Once I finally get it started, it runs fine all day.
But there was no click sound, the car just start for me so I have to get it towed. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. The third time I was told that it was a compression and spark issue and the mechanic replaced Spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, and the plastic head cover. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening I guess that's what it's for. The recording device does not pick it up very well. Well, I had the battery checked and they're telling the battery is fine and fully charged. Here is what I have done so far.
Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. Hopefully you put the securing screw back in. Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem. I decided to put the battery back on the car, turned the key and the car started up just fine. Now the car only starts with a jump and will not stay running if the jumper cables are disconnected.
You will likely need a manual, just to locate the thing. The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start. I've been driving my daughter's Nissan for the past week, trying to figure out what's going on. Got myself off that freeway and took streets home. A bad battery connection would. The engine also makes a knocking noise when the accelerator is pressed, but gets better as the engine warms up which I'm told is a gasket. Spark plugs, Spark plug wires, distributor cap, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
I've read something about a premature bearing failure, if that's relevant. It started up immediately, hot or cold. Or maybe the idle air control valve needs adjustment. A few months later after sitting for a week unused it happened again. The key could lose program or the unit in the dash is screwed up. When I try starting, I turn the ignition all the way to start but there's no response. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall.
The starter 1-month-old and alternator 1-year-old test out good also. Everything has been fine up until about a month ago when I returned to my car after working out at the gym. I left my car for two hours, it came up by itself. All the indicators at the dashboard lights up, horn is working, battery is new and alternator is working. No clicking, no hemming or hawwing, just nothing.
If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. And once again the car ran perfectly fine until we let it sit unused for three days. You mentioned the car crank on its own? Have someone tap on the starter while someone holds the key in the crank position. I had the battery replaced and the spark plugs at ~50,000 miles to no avail. You could check the fuel pressure or have it checked. I had the battery tested and the battery is fine.