It is 27 pages with plenty of pictures. If left unchecked your valves can look like this, or worse. All I see from the notes is removing piping for it. I'm not a fan of this mod of removing the flaps. Pull the turbo off the manifold. Rubicon Project This is an ad network.
Hose pliers also help - to pinch off those coolant hoses. You're actually going to favor one way over the other anyways. My main concern is to not break any studs when I remove them from the head. The swirl flap motors do not need threadlock on the bolts, they screw in to the plastic manifold, but do not forget to connect the glow plugs before mounting the motors. When you do the rear connection, be aware that more fuel will come from here than from the pump connection Now loosen the two lines on the left-hand side, at the pump only. Tools needed: Magnet tool - comes in handy, if you drop a bolt on the A8, it will probably end up in the belly pan, and you will not be able to retrieve it. HubPages Traffic Pixel This is used to collect data on traffic to articles and other pages on our site.
We'll do this step now so you can let the fuel drain out while you do the rest. This gives you an idea on what it looks like. With blasting, I would have to get to certain spots that I found difficult to reach and difficult to see if I was getting to. Second which engine does your A4 have It sounds like you have the 2. Now you can always bring a combination of both into the mix but what I figured out was if you really try to do this.
I'd inspect the valves and you'll see a bits and pieces of carbon still baked on the valves, as well on the back side and around the seat. Ratchet wrench and extension - with holder for the torx and hex bits 17mm and 19mm wrench - for disconnecting the fuel lines Bent nose pliers - needed for disconnecting and connecting the glow plug cables Flathead screwdriver - to pry the manifold flap linkage off Torque wrench - set to 9nm to avoid overtightening the manifold bolts, since it is made out of plastic. I did one side of the motor with the blasting and one side of the motor with the chemical and brush. At that time I installed two new O2 sensors. If you put it in cost for cost perspective. But like rich as in the car barley runs because im runing real rich and it backfires like mad whenever i step on it and nothing down there starts glowing. If you care what my thoughts are and what I would use.
The chemical system takes longer requires a little more work, but I found it costs way less and I felt less frustrated than I did with the blasting. Please don't respond with a question as it will have nothing to do with this diy. Remove the 12 bolts securing the intake manifold to the cylinder head and remove intake manifold. As for the chemical technique. Features Google Custom Search This is feature allows you to search the site.
Remove the five bolts and two nuts, and work the lower manifold out for cleaning. You just stick the wand in and run it around for about 5 to 8 min while running the vacuum. You can pull the manifold off the engine studs to give yourself more wiggle room to access the air hoses underneath the manifold. Let make one thing clear. Remove engine covers, front and back.
The second way is with brushes and chemicals to soak then brush off the carbon. With the ownership of these cars comes a little mystery as they were very expensive cars when new. With blasting as long as you have a good seal on the cylinder and your blasting tank never clogged good luck they clog and it sucks It's not bad. There are two additional electrical connectors and a vacuum line that needs to be disconnected. Save money by avoiding your mechanic and perform the repairs using the information we've provided here.
I brought the manifold to a friend's shop and dipped it into his spirit tank. The two mounts for the engine cover are made out of plastic, use a T40 bit and very gentle force or they will crack when you mount them. I contacted I am not affiliated in any way, they are based in bulgaria, speak english and seemed very service minded. If it's still showing a fault it maybe down to the runner flap motor, seens you have replaced the throttle body already. Hopefully someone can chime in here. If you want to save money on buying another maf sensor why don't you spend a few thousand on a big turbo with a mafless tune.
Does show the P2015 when scanned though. There are various items you need to disconnect from the manifold in order to get it out. To remove the 10mm nut, use the stubby wrench, rather than a socket. Loosen all the bolts and remove them with your extendable magnet. Once off this is what it looks like.
Not pictured: A T40 bit used to tighten the engine cover mounting lugs could have used hand force and pliers Items used to clean the intake duct - rags, old electrical cord and a broom handle. The only thing is that the bolts like to snap in the turbo. Disconnect highlighted vacuum hose and electrical connector: Time to pull out the fuel rail and injectors! At low rpm, they reduce the cross section of each intake runner approximately in half. I will note, that installing the manifold bolts can be a hassle. A terra clean will always help general driving and economy because of the amount of oil the tfsi's breath.