Can you pm me more pics? I would check the fault codes and see if they will clear. If so you must reset your password using the process. Alrighty, I've been fighting a broken horn, which turned out to be the clock spring. That made it a ton easier, but there are a few here and there that still fight with me. The cover only - look for the seam.
I've spent an hour bending screwdrivers and trying to feel for the lever, but can't seem to locate it. Tools you will need -long skinny phillips screwdriver -Long skinny flat-blade screwdriver for the airbag release. Then insert a thin bladed screwdriver along the edge of the door upholstery and pry out very gently the snaps that hold the rest of the side panel. There is a seam where you can insert a thin bladed screwdriver and pry this out gently. A fix that's been effective so far is to use tie wraps to firmly pull both connector parts together. Photo 1 shows the steering wheel with the assembly removed; note the retaining hooks which clasp the clockspring thereby holding the complete assembly in place.
First time, it came off first try. The wheel may ne … ed a firm wiggle to release it. This is due to your password not being migrated across during our conversion. Feel around for the top of the loop and then pry the loop down to get it around the spear tip. I take them off all the time and it usually takes about 30 seconds to take the wheel off, but I run into a few here and there that just will not let go. Now turn the wheel 180 degrees in the opposite direction and repeat the procedure for the second clasp. Pry off the speaker cover.
I think taking the steering wheel off is the most documented job in existence now. On my wheel you can clearly see the spring clips: In the close up, you can see the bit you have to move in position with the access hole behind it. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. Turn the wheel 90o to the left or right and look above and behind the steering wheel. Once you've done that you can remove the body side rubber boot and gently thread the wiring harness out of the kick panel area.
This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. That made it a ton easier, but there are a few here and there that still fight with me. I did however, learn what the problem was thanks to them and I'll share the solution here. Mark the shaft and the steering wheel mount plate so you know where to align it during re-assembly. I was wondering if the dealers had a special tool. Trying turning it all the way to both sides to know the middle position.
I'm nearly ready to just sell this thing with all the electrical gremlins. The clips are just on the other side of the rubber not next the metal inside the wheel. I think the ross tech wiki has a procedure for resetting its position. I think that should work. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists.
Now I'm having the same fault-code appear with the passenger-side seat I knew it was only a matter of time and I'll be fixing it myself. . The steering wheel shouldn't need moved if the rack has been done right as in assembled correctly. Before removing the wheel, make sure it's centered. This of course left me with an airbag code to clear.
This can be done by briefly touching the body or striker plate of the door. I have a 337 with a really faded wheel and this looks like a great alternative to having the wheel reupholstered. I just installed a rebuilt steering rack, no matter what I did I couldn't seem to get the steering wheel straight. The shaft that the steering wheel fastens to has a flat spot on one side and a cutout for the bolt that holds it on. I couldn't understand how the spring worked and was spending an over an hour sticking my screwdriver in that hole. Steering wheel removal on a mk4 Volkswagen This article shows how to swap or remove and replace the steering wheel on a Volkswagen Passat.